Lima Antigua

Instead of spending a day catching cabs up, down, and around the expansive city of Lima with only the help of a tour map, I decided to fork out the cash and do the touristy thing of booking a four hour city tour. I got convenience, information, and a good sleep in.

We visited a few sights in the district of Miraflores; first the Parque del Amor which looks over the cliff, and features tile mosaics, pretty gardens, and a big statue of two people kissing called "Beso". Nearby, parasailors jumped off the cliff and floated over the water and parks. The city housed archaeological sites as well, including Huaca Pucllana, a huge solid pyramid of mud bricks which only the base and some chambers remain.

In the district of San Insidro, there were parks built around an olive grove where some trees were over 400 years old, having being imported from Europe during the colonial period. The trees and their fruit were protected, except from all the birds. Central Lima's Plaza de Armas had some impressive buildings around it; most significant was the enormous Palacio del Gobierno, where the President lived. There was also the Cathedral where no mere priests lead the morning ceremonies; no less than a Cardinal, and a Bishop on Sunday masses.

Our final stop was the most interesting. Another church, the Iglesia San Francisco had a dozen chapels in the alcoves for the saints; tributes intricately carved with gold leaf details, some 12-15m or more tall (Mary and Jesus' were about 20m). Beside the church was the convent, as old as the church, built in the 17th Century (I think... it's heller old though!). It is decorated with garish imported tile mosaics, decaying frescos covered over with dark stained canvas paintings. The best part of this building though, were the ceilings, particularly the dome, composed of geometric wooden tiles held up by the pressure between them, and not by adhesives or nails. Also notable was the convent library, with 400 year old texts in Latin and lit up naturally with sky lights. Under the church and convent were the catacombs, where thousands upon thousands of bones, mostly femurs and skulls, were stacked in pits some six feet deep. And a prominent feature in the church's foundation was a large brick well. Not a water well, but a design to absorb seismic activity. The church was all original, never having fallen during its 400-odd years, as the Cathedral has at least twice.

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