Survival Tips for Ethiopia

People rave about their trips to Ethiopia. It's off-the-beaten-track but full of amazingness and culture... I suspect these people enjoyed Ethiopia in the comfort of their 3- or 4-star hotels, coaches, and internal flights, according to a planned and packaged tour.

Now, I'm not saying Ethiopia isn't amazing or doesn't provide a different experience in culture etc. The towns (and especially the local markets) are lively and exciting places, their cuisine is surprisingly varied and tasty, the coffee is the best in the world, and unique landscapes like the Simien Mountain range and the other-worldly Danakil Depression are found there.

Hiking the Simien Mountains was a highlight. Finding a place to pee in the bushes around camp where 50 other people shit, not so much.

Ethiopia is also a land of fine print, smarmy opportunists, entitled children demanding money, and money-grubbing tourism operators. If you are thinking about going to Ethiopia, I would say, "Go for it! There are terrific experiences to be had there." Then I would also say, "Be warned: if you want to do a good part of it independently, know now that it is not a comfortable place. Nor is it inexpensive."

Here are some tips that might make your visit easier, and provide you some realistic expectations:

Lower your expectations and be prepared.

• Ethiopia has unreliable infrastructure. Almost all budget accommodation (up to 40AUD/night) will fail at providing at least one of: running water, uninterrupted electricity, and decent internet. Charge your devices when you can. Don't assume you will be able to when you arrive at the next place.
• Ensure you have enough cash to get you through several days as ATMs can be out of service. In Gondar, we visited at least 5 machines only to be directed elsewhere. Fortunately, we found a working one a little way from the centre.
• Have a back up plan in case your bus is cancelled. Buses are not allowed to travel overnight, so there is usually only one trip a day for long distances.

Trust no one and do your research.

• Don't be that person who perpetuates local perceptions of gullible tourists with money to burn by dismissing and/or accepting dishonest behaviour! You are the one with the power to choose. Be familiar with the scams and the actual prices for activities. Be firm, but be polite!
• There are ridiculous touts being offered for tours. For example, 160USD seems to be the starting price for a half-day boat trip on Lake Tana. (I find this offensive!) You may think you're awesome when you negotiate down to 30USD, only to find that you have only paid for the boat, and you are expected to fork out more money at every stop and every entrance point of the tour (and there are several).
• Kids can also be unscrupulous, banking on their innocent age and looks, conning you into believing that they are upstanding students who only want to practise their English. Have a conversation, certainly, but start to be suspicious when they only talk about you doing tours or invite you back to their/their family's home for coffee. 

Buy a SIM card as soon as possible.

• Telephoning trusted guides for advice or translation, or communicating with your accommodation transfer when buses are delayed becomes very useful.
• Wifi and internet connections are unreliable, so 3G for research or contacting home is a great back up.
• Even the largest and most reputable bus companies (like Salem) can cancel your trip at short notice! They will usually ask for a phone number when you purchase a ticket, and will notify you of cancellations.

Buy bus tickets the day before.

• This seems to be usual practice, and often bus company offices will tell you to come back the day before you intend to travel. Buying in advance seems to confuse them, especially if their English is poor, as differing dates and times additionally complicate things. Go in the morning, as seats do sell out!

Become familiar with the Ethiopian date and time.

• Ensure you know which calendar/clock is being used when discussing bus, tour, or meeting times. For example, 07:00am to you is 01:00am Ethiopian time, and the year 2018 for you is their 2011!

Hopefully, these tips will help you prepare for your trip. Please do not be put off. Simply be more prepared than I was.