Victoria Falls on the Ground

The tourist town of Victoria Falls is named for the 3km wide waterfall that has a coveted place on the Seven Wonders of the Natural World list. Victoria Falls additionally offers a range of adventure tours including rafting, bungee jumping, microlight flights, helicopter rides, and game tours of the neighbouring Chobe National Park. It is no wonder then, that it is one of the most popular destinations in Africa. The tour websites, magazines, and pamphlets paint a pretty picture of the town, but on the ground, it is a different story.

Crocodiles, hippos, buffalo and elephants are some of the wildlife in Botswana's stunning Chobe National Park.

The town appears to see very little of the tourist dollars that pour in. There is no street lighting, and limited public space and amenity. Some people believe that a lack of local government is to blame, though an internationally famous attraction might still be expected to garner closer federal attention. Private tour companies and hotels, while providing employment for local folk, are not likely to spend money beyond their properties. A 13 minute helicopter ride over the falls and Zambezi River costs 150USD per person. Each chopper will seat 5 or 6 people. Flights occur throughout the day and there are several companies that run the same experience. That is a lot of money made, and we're just talking about one activity offered!

Great aerial view from a chopper, but was it worth the dollars for 13 minutes of airtime? Rob doesn't think so.

Another significant disappointment we encountered was the exorbitant prices for food of poor quality. As travellers who prefer the cost-saving practice of self-catering, we struggled to find a good source of protein and fresh produce that was actually fresh. The boerworst seemed full of breadcrumbs and soy protein, and the beef cuts were an unnatural shade of blue, so a whole roast chook became our go-to. But what costs 8AUD back home, in Zimbabwe, was a ridiculous 20AUD!

Most frustrating of all was the lack of service displayed at just about every bakery, small shop, grocery store, and fast food outlet. People just don't care to serve you. There are no smiles or acknowledgement, as if you are bothering them as they look at their phone screens. As a customer, you have to take charge, push money in front of them and firmly place an order or demand your food. There is no work efficiency or care about clearing the long queues. Waiting and putting up with shit service is the norm here.

It amazes me that I have never heard of these frustrations from other travellers. Perhaps they have been wiser to visit Victoria Falls on a completely organised tour and hide inside the boundaries of their hotels and hotel restaurants.