Have Itch, Will Travel

Oh! The Adriatic Sea ! We had heard of its beauty. Though scared away by the exorbitant accommodation prices in Croatia, four times greater than elsewhere, we were determined to find a way to see the coastline. Montenegro offered some popular holiday spots at more affordable prices, and we chose the smaller town of Ulcinj . What we found was a coastline of rocky cliffs and beaches, met by a calm, deep green sea. Holidaymakers lay on the grey sand on Small Beach , shunning the shady umbrellas to obtain a deeper shade of pink. Meanwhile, a hundred sun lounges were unoccupied along the bottom of the cliffs. We learned that the sun lounges and much of the cliff coast were privately owned by hotels and restaurants, surrounded by fences to keep the public out. Further fuelling our displeasure at the rampant privatisation of what should be enjoyed by all, was learning about the alleged corruption and embezzlement committed by the Ulcinj mayor. It started to make sense. In Ulcinj, cars a

We expected to simply pass through Albania during the Balkan leg of our trip. The neighbourhood known as Blloku in the capital, Tirana , surprised us with its modernity, bar and cafe culture, an d buzzing lifestyle. Nearby, public green space was available for the more active citizens. A mix of shaded forest with trails, farmland, and an immense artificial lake, Grand Park offered a place for thousands of locals to run, walk, cycle, exercise, and picnic. It was surprising then, to learn that the country had only begun to emerge from an isolated Communist state in 1985. Communism finally collapsed in 1992, but the newly optimistic population was swept up by a pyramid scheme, and its inevitable failure led to riots and a civil war in 1997. Since then, the country has been finding its feet, obtaining NATO membership and more recently vying to be part of the EU. Our admiration and fondness for the country and its progress grew from out of nowhere. Bunker by Lake Shkodra that we f

The 500 year old ceiling was domed and punctuated with small stained glass windows. Sounds of dripping water echoed in the connected marble chambers. I took advantage of the silence and closed my eyes, trying to relax. As awkward as the solitude was, I was glad for it. Soaked in a mixture of spring water and sweat, and lying on a hot marble slab in nothing but my undies was best as a personal experience, I decided. I wondered if Rob, in the men's section, had been allowed to wear his underwear, and grinned as I recalled his resolute stance to abandon the idea of a Turkish bath if there were free roaming penises during his session. The allocated 15 minutes of sweating in the heated room elapsed and a woman entered. She was singing a local song and smiled at me, then slipped off her robe to join me in my semi-nudity. She instructed me to lie on my stomach and started rubbing every inch of exposed skin firmly with a textured mitt. Flip over, sit up... I was as passive as a child be

As we prepared to leave Turkey after 6 weeks, we reflected on our experiences and observations. Sadly, a common theme through most of the country was one of declined tourism due to the negative reports in Western media. Warnings of terrorist attacks have failed to emphasise that conflict largely remains at the Syrian border, which you would be foolish to visit. The volumes of refugees seen some years ago has dissipated across the country, over other borders, and absorbed in areas rarely frequented by tourists. These fears that have driven tourists away have endured longer that any likely threat. To anyone visiting East Europe, I encourage you to visit Turkey! The people are some of the friendliest you will meet. If you overpay by 1 lira (0.33AUD), they will return it. The hawkers at restaurants or food carts will have a joke with you. The countryside offers a variety of experiences, including cosmopolitan cities, coastlines, deserts, hiking, rural settings, ancient ruins, and unique