Big Dirty Crazy Lima (Miraflores)

Other travellers associated Lima with words like crazy, dirty, and dangerous. I intended to blitz through the city, but guidebooks painted a more appealing picture of certain suburbs outside centro. Miraflores, an affluent district full of department stores, banks and parks, hosted Parque Salazar, a clifftop park with views over the ocean. Couples stared at the patient surfers below and gutsy paragliders above, alternatively opting for a wander through Larcomar, an underground mall carved into the side of the cliff. There, I found a book recommended to me.

I had met a fellow Brisbanite at The Flying Dog Backpackers (distinct from The Flying Dog Bed And Breakfast and The Flying Dog Hostel nearby) on Canseco Street. The Aussie sense of humour had been a refreshing reminder of home, but Dave was an intriguing character in himself, an Atheist priest on the way to help rebuild the earthquake-devastated town of Pisco in the South. He also shared my interest in socialism and gave a glowing review of Open Veins Of Latin America by Eduardo Galeano. Between wandering that part of Lima and reading my new book, I spent a decent amount of time at the hostel.

Patrons turned over quickly, but I was blessed with good company every day. One night, I had a few Pink Bitch cocktails with a couple of Americans on their way to see Machu Picchu. Harry the bartender, working during his five year long travels, was always good for a laugh, and I envied Tom the English guy who was three months into a "however long" trip. Dave had managed to convince Tom to join him in Pisco, and asked if I was interested as well. Fresh into my involuntary solo travel plunge, the temptation to latch onto someone else and go along with their plans was strong. I reminded myself that I, too, had plans to go as far as Mexico and Cuba before returning to Brazil in time for Carnaval. Learning self-reliance, though frightening, was an opportunity not to be discarded when a convenient out was offered. The next morning, I had made up my mind and wished them well.

I was going to be alright.