The Wild Coast and Garden Route

Johannesburg to Cape Town Road Trip - Part 3

After a few heavenly days in the stunning Drakensberg Mountains and surrounding countryside, we headed towards the coast. The mountains slowly gave way to the hills, though the Renault Sandero still struggled up the long ascents. We passed through a few small villages and towns, the latter of which were chaotic messes of people roaming amongst a makeshift marketplace along the highway. Over the final pass, we saw the coast laid out in front of us, the salty mist blurred the horizon.

Our street dog escort leads the Wild Coast hike.

Port St John's impressed upon me a laid-back beach town inhabited by hippies and street dogs, far too grungy to be comfortable in. Fragments of smashed beer bottles glittered in the gutters, suggestions of recklessness and violence that have never appealed to me. Instead, Rob and I took to a hiking trail that linked the empty white beaches. The narrow path was beaten into the soft side of the coastal hills, and though the flora was reminiscent of a jungle, the crash of waves on the rocks beneath reorientated us to our true location. Across the water we frequently caught the spray and splashes of a large pod of whales slapping their tails or breaching. This was the Wild Coast indeed.

Missing the secluded peace of the countryside, we left the beaches and found something that met halfway; a cottage on the Kwellera River. The calm river was directly accessed from the property, and its sandy bottom was easily visible from the shore. A short walk along the weedy bank opened the river mouth at the beach where a few people were enjoying the sun, each content in their solitude. Dense foliage screened camp sites from view beyond the dune and, further along, we discovered a walking trail that lined the coast, leading to nowhere in particular. A coffee on the deck as the sun set was the reward of a day's exploration and, as the three dogs on the property entertained us with their antics, we thought, "No, this is how we imagine our retirement!"

Rob strolls along the pristine Kwellera River.

As if to say that the perfection of our Kwellera River stay could never be beaten, the winds lashed across the roads when we departed, forcing the Sandero to wiggle in the lane against the gusts. By the afternoon, the wind was replaced by a downpour, reducing traffic to a snail pace as nervous drivers peered as far ahead as the poor visibility would allow. The town of Plettenburg Bay was deserted due to the weather, but even in the greyness, it was easy to appreciate its coastal village appeal and hilly position overlooking the ocean. We stayed close the peninsula which would provide us with one of the most memorable day hikes of the trip.

Boardwalk with a view on the Robberg Peninsula.

The Robberg Peninsula offered a varied 14km looped hike that took us on shaded bush tracks, along cliff faces, over boulders, across rock pools, and through sandy beaches. Highlights included rock-hopping from marker to marker, sighting (and smelling) thousands of seals and some distant whales, and taking a scenic boardwalk around the "island". All in all, a fantastic and fun day out and yet another indication of the high value that South Africa places on her natural beauty.