Conquering The Death Road

We had heard recommendations for tour companies that would arrange for you to charge down the World's Most Dangerous Road on a bicycle. Some hostel-faithfuls would parrot guidebook and advertising posters, proclaiming that Gravity was the safest and only reputable company for the exhilarating task. They recollected the tour as they strutted around in striped happy pants and alpaca jumpers with bored llamas knitted on them. They were embracing the local culture while hanging around Irish pubs. This set paid over $b600 ($AU100) for their experience, when there were options available for as little as $b200 or so. We favoured the middle ground and signed up with BSide Adventures who charged about $b410.

Our small group and guide drove to the starting point after paying $b25 for bike passes. There was a bitterly cold wind at 4500m altitude where we donned our gear, became attached to our bikes, and received instructions. The first section of the tour was sealed bitumen, winding around mountains topped with ice and cloud. Freewheeling at about 60km/h, we overtook semi-trailers and other traffic in breathtaking ignorance of truck blind spots.

The second section of the tour was the actual "Death Road" where hundreds of people died during construction and, during the period of its use, some 300 people a year died travelling on it. More recently, traffic was diverted onto a safer route and the original Death Road scarcely sees vehicles these days. The marked decrease in traffic has not stopped the deaths completely. "Last year, eight people died, and so far this year, the count is already up to six," Ariel our guide said, adding with a dramatic ominous air, "All were cyclists."

The Death Road was scored along the side of the mountains, the surface pitted with rocks and topped with loose pebbles and dust. Cliff drops, slippery sections cutting across waterfalls, narrow sections, surface grit threatening to take your bike sideways on bends, and the rare oncoming car were all ingredients for danger, and exhilaration. Two hours of nerves and tight grips on handle bars required rest stops, and we were able to admire the spectacular sight of clouds rising from the valley across the face of the green cliffs. It warmed as we descended and we stripped off our outer layers. The final destination was the pretty mountainside town of Coroico at a warm 1500m altitude where we enjoyed a typical Bolivian lunch by a lush bougainvillea and hibiscus garden.

Comments

  1. Hahahah tourist wearing happy pants and Ilama jumpers. ROFLMAO!

    ReplyDelete

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