Snow And Ice In El Calafate

The town of El Calafate lies at the edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, acting as a gateway to the immense Perito Moreno Glacier. Our imaginations promised us a land of ice and snow; the name "Patagonia" always seemed to inspire a wondrous winter scene. There was a disappointing lack of snow on the ground or falling from the sky in El Calafate, however, though it certainly felt cold enough for all forms of frozen water to be present.

A stroll about town to reconnoiter its offerings revealed a small tourist centre of boutiques, cafés, and chocolate shops, while the surrounding streets were populated with fearless dogs that boldly challenged traffic. One of the street dogs dubbed "Mangey Six" decided that we needed an escort to the lake, and coaxed Julie onto its frozen surface where we saw others in the distance skittering across the ice.

Crack.

A boot pushed through the ice, and into the semi-frozen slurry beneath. Julie's self-diagnosed "frostbite of the foot" initiated the abandonment of further ice walking adventures... until our last evening in town. The sun was nearly setting and a terrifically cold wind dared us to retreat with the light, but it was to be our last chance and brave it we did. Slipping and sliding on the ice for well over an hour as the sky darkened was a highlight of the day, and more successful than another attempt that evening.

Following a perilous jaunt in the dark where the ice cracked threateningly, Julie reluctantly conceded that it was better to remain warm and dry than suffer "frostbite of the body" and have an interesting story to tell.