Have Itch, Will Travel

Johannesburg to Cape Town Road Trip - Part 4 Most people who visit rate Cape Town highly, so I was curious to discover what carried Cape Town over other big cities. Apart from the dominating Table Mountain backdrop (on a clear, fogless day), we found that it didn't offer much more than any other city. The colourful neighbourhood of Bokamp is photogenic but there's not a lot happening. There were cafes , bars , restaurants , and shopping malls as you would expect. The bulk of tourists seemed to congregate at the V&A Waterfront , a harbour area rejuvenated into a large, muddled tourist trap of full-priced boutique shops and restaurants. A nearby " market " proved a disappointment as gullible tourists gathered under the white marquee to dine atop fake grass and pallet furniture, paying top dollar for dressed up pancakes and smoothies marketed as organic, vegan, gluten-free, or subscribe to some sort of eco-friendly/health fad. The best of Cape Town was...

Johannesburg to Cape Town Road Trip - Part 3 After a few heavenly days in the stunning Drakensberg Mountains and surrounding countryside, we headed towards the coast. The mountains slowly gave way to the hills, though the Renault Sandero still struggled up the long ascents. We passed through a few small villages and towns, the latter of which were chaotic messes of people roaming amongst a makeshift marketplace along the highway. Over the final pass, we saw the coast laid out in front of us, the salty mist blurred the horizon. Our street dog escort leads the Wild Coast hike. Port St John's impressed upon me a laid-back beach town inhabited by hippies and street dogs, far too grungy to be comfortable in. Fragments of smashed beer bottles glittered in the gutters, suggestions of recklessness and violence that have never appealed to me. Instead, Rob and I took to a hiking trail that linked the empty white beaches . The narrow path was beaten into the soft side of the coas...

Johannesburg to Cape Town Road Trip - Part 2 The further we drove from Johannesburg, the more relaxed we felt. It was not long before the urban landscape transformed into yellowed plains, and we settled in our seats for hours of scenic driving. After every pass, and around each corner, we gaped. South Africa was showing off her striking mountain ranges , hazy in the distance, the fields etched into her hillsides, village houses scattered amongst the farmland , and people, people everywhere. Near the villages, it was a regular sight to see school children walking along the road, regardless of the time. A poplar-lined dirt drive led to a gate that was the entryway to our country escape in the Drakensberg Mountains . It was a small lodge with a wraparound patio, and the most difficult decision to make was where to sit with a coffee and breakfast. Bushland bordered one side of the grassed property, and the rest were endless fields of who-knows-what, and no one to be seen. This was how ...

Johannesburg to Cape Town Road Trip - Part 1 Maboneng is a trendy district in Johannesburg ; the streets are lined with hipster cafes , moody restaurants , artisan stalls, and boutiques. There are sculptures in the lanes and murals on the industrial brick walls. Maboneng is also only as big as two blocks and security staff man each entry, making the district a European-style island haven surrounded by dodginess. In fact, it was recommended that we Uber it to anywhere outside of Maboneng, even to another "safe" neighbourhood just 1 km away. We felt stuck and needed to leave, despite the welcome cheap offerings of excellent food and coffee , and planned to navigate our way out of dodge in a surprisingly affordable rental car . After a few nervous wrong turns, thanks to closed on-ramps and an inaccurate map, we raised our arms on the freeway bound for Cape Town, wooting, "Road trip!" Rob had been to Cape Town several years ago and considered it one of his f...

The tourist town of Victoria Falls is named for the 3km wide waterfall that has a coveted place on the Seven Wonders of the Natural World list. Victoria Falls additionally offers a range of adventure tours including rafting, bungee jumping, microlight flights, helicopter rides, and game tours of the neighbouring Chobe National Park . It is no wonder then, that it is one of the most popular destinations in Africa. The tour websites, magazines, and pamphlets paint a pretty picture of the town, but on the ground, it is a different story. Crocodiles, hippos, buffalo and elephants are some of the wildlife in Botswana's stunning Chobe National Park. The town appears to see very little of the tourist dollars that pour in. There is no street lighting, and limited public space and amenity. Some people believe that a lack of local government is to blame, though an internationally famous attraction might still be expected to garner closer federal attention. Private tour companies...